We love your site. Why did you start Korduroy.tv?
I wanted to inspire surfers to take a more hands on approach to surfing. Most of the good surfers I’d had the opportunity to meet and document were very involved with their equipment – always tinkering, fixing, altering their fins, boards etc. They knew a lot about the ocean; the tides, swell direction, intervals, winds. Surfing was the just a result of being connected with your place. Where I grew up, surfing was mostly about fashion and status. I thought surfing had lost a lot of the best parts about being a surfer. I was influenced by guys like Andrew Kidman, Jack Johnson, Chris Malloy and Thomas Campbell, all who seemed to be trying to return surfing to something more contributory to society as a whole. I wanted to take the sentiment online.
What are the most rewarding parts of doing Korduroy?
When we release a video and people enjoy it.
What are the challenges and things you dislike about running a surf blog?
Many challenges, there’s no money in it so it’s all about doing it for the love of it.
How do you see the current state of online media and content in the surf world?
It’s great, I love watching the diversity of stuff. There’s the contests, independent passion projects and then all the surf edits. There’s so much more content coming out every day than there was just in 2009 it’s mindblowing.
What are your thoughts on the surf “blogosphere” phenomenon these days?
The surf blogosphere? I don’t know, I think for better or worse it’s all about Facebook and Instagram now. There was never any money in “surf blogging.” Look, surfing is about having fun and consumes a lot of time to do it well. It’s always been the king of leisure activities for cultures wealthy enough to support it. I think we are entering a time when we’ve burned through a lot of that real wealth and we’ll look at the past few decades with fond memories. I feel lucky to have played in this time.
Tell us about your latest project.
It’s called Island Earth, and it’s about the GMO controversy in Hawaii. How it came to be and potential solutions through small scale diversified agriculture. It’s been a lot of fun to explore a part of Hawaii that has nothing to do with surfing.
What do you think the global surf community needs? What is missing from our lives that you’d like to see out there?
Hmm… Well it’s very selfish now. I think everybody could really learn a lot (myself included) about the traditional Hawaiian approach to surfing. Being an advanced society they really learned how to deal with finite resources like waves. Now there’s this attitude that if I don’t take this wave someone else will and that’s a bad thing. There’s also no or little respect from beginner surfers in the lineup. But that’s not entirely their fault, they’ve just lost the role models.
You’re a writer/blogger, business owner, filmmaker, surfer, man of many talents. If you had to choose one to enjoy and make a living at for the rest of your life, which one would you choose and why?
I’d choose filmmaking for sure. I don’t know if there’s another job that gives you access to peoples lives like filmmaking. I’ve learned so much through the process, every project is like a course in life. And it feels great to capture and share the experience with others.
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/ Photography & Interview by Matt Titone
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