It can get pretty cold and stormy in Vancouver Island, not the most idealistic setting for most surfers. How did you first get into surfing?
Two words: Blue Crush. I wish I was kidding (I’m not). After watching that movie a thousand times, my mom took my sister and I out to Tofino one summer, I LOVED it. We got surf lessons at Surf Sister, I surfed my first “green” wave and I was hooked. This led to years and years of vacation and travel dedicated to surfing. I love everything about it — the lifestyle, the party waves, the coffee in hand surf checks, the days with the best waves and the days with the shit waves. I love the freedom, the progression… I was nicknamed the “barrel dodger” on a recent Indo trip, but hopefully one day I might let my hair dip into the tiniest and safest barrel (if someone knows where this is, let a girl know!)
What’s it like being a surfer in Vancouver Island? What are the greatest pros and cons?
Pros: It’s one of the most beautiful places on the earth and it attracts some of the best humans. Cons: Excessive Neoprene, the 5/4 with hood, booties and gloves. I mean, I’m a bit of a wimp, but it really can get that cold in winter. The Pro to this is that it makes you really appreciate the summer days where you can strip down to a 4/3 with no booties or gloves — mentally it becomes somewhat tropical!