If this place caught on fire and you could only save a couple things, what would they be?
My man, my dog, my cameras & film, and my surfboards.
How would you define your style?
What is your favorite part about the area you live in and your community?
I love that we’re on the beach, the airport is only 10 minutes away, you can walk everywhere and anywhere you need to go, and there is great food everywhere.
How have you seen this area change over the years?
Yeah, everywhere is always changing, but especially since I was a kid and used to come down here — it has changed a lot. About 6 years ago now, I was living up here for about a year and a half and since then it has really changed a lot too… Gentrification in action big time around here. Some things are good; more yummy places to eat, great shops, but the downside is all the families who have been here for generations being forced out that really bums me out a lot and I think really sucks.
Where are your local hangouts?
Fiesta Brava, Lefthouse, One Life, Groundworks, Townhouse on a Club Pacific night, Mollusk
How long have you been surfing?
How did you start?
I learned how to surf at the beach, from the ocean and watching people better than me really taught me as there were no surf camps and surf instructors. And I really think that’s the best way to learn — go out and figure it out yourself with some friends that’s what it is all about…
What is your favorite time period in surfing history?
I just love the old days heavy boards, rad cars, empty lineups, no leggies, tight boardshorts, the start of it all. Everything was so fresh and unexplored. I love that time period.
What is your favorite board?
My favorite board always and forever will be my Takayama Model T, the Cadillac of longboards.
Where is your favorite place to surf around here?
Where is your favorite place to surf in the world?
Where is your favorite travel location in the world?
Where do you consider home?
I always feel at home in the sea.
/ Photography & Interview by Matt Titone